Please note – BeeWeaver Apiaries is not responsible for queens that arrive alive but are not installed immediately.
There are a few easy steps you can take to reduce your SHB troubles. Place your hive in the sun or nearly full sun. The small hive beetle pupates in the ground outside the hive and the hot sun will bake them. Make sure your hive is queen right and strong. If not, SHB and other pests will take full advantage of it. Using traps (some use vegetable oil) can reduce their population as well. Keep your hive free of places where beetles can hide so the bees can chase them out of their hive... no plastic frames, inner covers, or feeders that give SHB nooks and crannies to hide out.
BeeWeaver package bees are 3 pounds of bees with a young, mated queen. The beekeeper can put them in any type of hive (Top Bar Hive, Langstroth Hive, Observation Hive...). Package bees must be fed sugar syrup as soon as they are hived until the bees stop feeding on the syrup because they are building from scratch.
Bees are very adaptable creatures. Even though the breeding ground for the BeeWeaver breed has mild winters and very hot summers, that does not mean the bee will only do well in this environment. We ship our bees all over the continental US, from coast to coast, and customers from all states return to us time and again for their queen/bee needs. To encourage our breed to be able to adapt to circumstances on their own we do not manipulate/facilitate them other than what's necessary. For instance, we only feed the bees syrup when they are light.
Probably not, as long as your hive is headed by a BeeWeaver Queen (and so long as there have not been large number of hives perishing from varroa mites in your vicinity) Even highly varroa tolerant bees like ours can be overcome by mites if several hives within flying distance of your hive perish with large varroa infestations. All the mites from the dying and dead hives can end up in your colony if the bees in your hive “rob” the leftover honey and pollen from the dead and dying hives. Please note that you may still see mites in your hive, but BeeWeav
Get ready before you get near. Have excluder and extra hive bodies handy. Smoke entrance and the work quickly to get lid and top brood chamber off and set top brood chamber on top of empty hive body.
Wind may be one of the biggest issues you face. Nothing chills a hive down more than having -40 degree air blown into every crack and opening. In Vermont, we used those black corrugated hive wraps and they were life-savers for the bees. If you can't find those, black roofing paper, stapled on the hive like a big black present also works great, and breathes well so the hives don't get too moist on the inside, which can lead to water condensing on the cover and dripping onto the bees.
Try these practices:
There are many different indicators that you need to kill the old queen and install a new one. Two of the biggest reasons are that your hive has become less productive or your queen has a poor breeding pattern, producing spotty brood or even laying lots of drone brood and producing few worker broods. Most queens will run out of semen within two seasons of their initial mating, so beekeepers often re-queen as a preventative measure every spring, or at least every other spring (drones result from unfertilized eggs being laid). So, if your queen is getting older, it's probably time to re-qu